Retirement Savings Calculator

Project your retirement balance including employer match and salary growth, then see the annual income it could support under the 4% rule.

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Your numbers

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Balance at retirement
$2,793,728
In 33 years, at age 65
Breakdown
Your contributions$523,239
Employer match$209,296
Growth$2,016,193
Sustainable annual income (4% rule)About $9,312 per month
$111,749
Your total contributions
$523,239
Employer match receivedFree money — never leave it on the table
$209,296
Investment growth
$2,016,193
Final salary (projected)
$251,972
Income replacement ratioMost planners target 70–80%
44%
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Start with the match

An employer match is the highest-return item available to almost any American worker. A dollar-for-dollar match up to 4% of salary is a 100% instant return, before any market growth. On a $95,000 salary that is $3,800 a year — roughly $400,000 over a full career once compounded. Contributing less than the match threshold is the most expensive common financial mistake.

Contribution rate is the lever you control

You cannot control returns. You can control how much you put in. Raising the rate from 10% to 15% of a $95,000 salary is about $396 a month, and over 33 years at 7% it adds several hundred thousand dollars to the outcome. The practical trick is to raise the rate by one percentage point every time you get a raise — the increase never hits your take-home pay, so it does not feel like a sacrifice.

Vesting: the match is not always yours yet

Employer contributions often vest on a schedule — cliff vesting after three years, or graded vesting over five or six. Your own contributions are always 100% yours. Check your vesting schedule before changing jobs; leaving three months before a cliff can forfeit a meaningful sum.

What the 4% rule really says

The rule estimates a sustainable withdrawal, not a guarantee. It was derived from historical US market data over rolling 30-year periods and assumes a diversified stock-and-bond portfolio. Retiring into a severe downturn — a sequence-of-returns problem — is the main failure mode, and the standard defences are keeping two to three years of expenses in cash, and being willing to trim withdrawals in bad years.

Do not forget Social Security and healthcare

For most US households Social Security replaces a meaningful share of pre-retirement income, so a portfolio does not need to cover everything. Working against that, healthcare costs before Medicare eligibility at 65 are the single largest budget item for early retirees. Both belong in a full plan alongside the portfolio number above.

Order of operations

  1. 401(k) up to the full employer match.
  2. High-interest debt above roughly 8%.
  3. Emergency fund of three to six months of expenses.
  4. Max out an HSA if you have a qualifying plan — triple tax advantaged.
  5. Roth or traditional IRA, then back to the 401(k) up to the annual limit.
  6. Taxable brokerage for anything beyond that.
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Frequently asked questions

How much should I be saving?

A widely used target is 15% of gross income including any employer match, starting in your twenties. Starting later requires more — roughly 20% from age 35 and 25%+ from 45 to reach a similar outcome.

What is the 4% rule?

A guideline from research by William Bengen suggesting that withdrawing 4% of a portfolio in year one, then adjusting for inflation, historically survived 30 years. It is a starting point, not a guarantee; some researchers now argue for 3.3–3.7% given current valuations.

Traditional or Roth 401(k)?

Traditional gives you a deduction now and taxes withdrawals later; Roth is the reverse. Roth generally wins if you expect a higher tax rate in retirement or are early in your career; traditional wins if you are in a peak earning year. Many people split the difference.

Am I behind?

Fidelity's commonly cited benchmarks are roughly 1x salary saved by 30, 3x by 40, 6x by 50 and 8x by 60. They are averages, not verdicts — the useful response to being behind is raising the contribution rate, not despair.

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Disclaimer: results are estimates for general information only and do not constitute financial, tax or legal advice. Actual figures depend on your lender, credit profile and jurisdiction. Verify any number with a qualified professional before acting on it.